5 Must Read Mountaineering Books for Beginners

I find it increasingly difficult to sift through all the mountaineering material that’s out there nowadays. If I want to learn from the best, should I read the books from the mountaineer legends or are they outdated and replaced by new material?

Now, if you spend your weekends dreaming of mountains, like me, you will probably find good books sooner or later. However, if you are new to mountaineering and want a short list, I’m here to help you.

So, which books can you read to better equip you for the great outdoors? In this article, I review five books that are really good resources to have for anyone new to mountaineering.

1. Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills

Author(s): Textbook by the Mountaineers

This book is often called the “Bible of Mountaineering” and with good reason.

It is encyclopedic in its nature and offers an overview of most topics that you need to know when undertaking a successful expedition and build your basic mountaineering skills.

First published in 1960, this book has undergone many editions and is constantly being updated with the latest information and technology.

 It’s available on Amazon here.

2. How to Rock Climb!

Author(s): John Long

John Long has found a way of mixing high-quality instructional material with humor that makes reading this book a pleasure, even when you’re doing it for the fourth time.

How to Rock Climb! covers a wide range of fundamental topics, such as ethics and actually getting up the rock and down again. Each edition reflects the latest in equipment and technology.

You will find sections on face climbing, crack climbing, ropes, anchors, belays, sport climbing, and many other topics. This is an essential book for anyone with a serious passion for rock climbing.

This book also went through a few editions and is currently on its fourth one.

You can find it on Amazon here.

3. Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher

Author(s): Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston

This reference work was first published in 2004 and is aimed at intermediate climbers. Here, you will find high-quality instruction on tools, skills and techniques to use in alpine terrain.

Topics covered include climbing on rock, snow, ice, and glaciers at moderate altitudes of 5000m and lower.

This is a purely instructional book – it’s a learning experience, not a storybook, so you won’t find any fluff and anecdotes with which to get sidetracked.

Kathy Cosley and Mark Houston have more than 20 years’ experience as guides and climbing instructors. Kathy was the first woman to climb the Eiger’s North Face, while Mark was one of the first guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association. In short, these guys really know what they’re talking about.

It’s available on Amazon here.

4. Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, High, and Fast

Author(s): Mark F. Twight & James Martin

Mark F. Twight is at the top of extreme alpinism. This book is packed with pro tips, climbing stories and useful information that will help you successfully undertake lightweight extreme alpinism.

The tips and instructions are incredibly practical, if in some places somewhat dated, and will stand you in good stead if you’re interested in this particular leg of mountaineering.

Be warned that you might just get bitten by the extreme alpinist bug – this guy is hard-core and his stories prove it.

 It’s available on Amazon here.

5. Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations

Author(s): Andy Tyson & Molly Loomis

Self-rescue can be an overwhelming skill to learn since it encompasses such a wide range of topics and potential situations.

This book breaks things down in a manner that’s simple, practical and easy to understand. Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis are experienced guides and climbing instructors with a wealth of personal experience to draw from.

Some techniques described in the book are a little dated and can be done in a simpler, easier way. For this reason, it might be a good idea to combine reading this book with a short course on the topic presented by a certified guide.

Techniques described in this book are aimed at teams of two, which is the most common climbing team size.

These techniques can be used on rock, snow, and ice using gear that climbers are likely to have in their rack in any case. Most people don’t carry expensive search and rescue gear with them on treks, so this is super practical.

The authors also go over a long list of common potential hazards, such as when your rope gets stuck or is too short, losing an important piece of gear of wandering too far off the path, landing you in dangerous terrain.

It’s available on Amazon here.

In Closing

If you’re serious about mountaineering, it’s always a good idea to get proper instruction. This includes signing up for courses presented by experienced and qualified guides and also reading up on the topic.

I hope that, after reading the books on this list, you will be better equipped and mentally prepared for insane adventures and epic journeys in the great outdoors that mountaineers call home.

Written by Felix

About me

Hi! I’m Felix. When I’m not spending time out in the mountains, I like to write about my hobbies. That is how Mountain Homies was created. On this site, I try to gather all the juicy information about Mountaineering that I have learned since I started. Happy adventures!

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