Which is Harder to Climb: Denali or Everest?

Denali aka Mt. McKinley is the third highest of the Seven Summits. Photo from Anurag paul

Everest is 2658 m higher than Denali. In short, both mountains require highly technical climbing but Everest has more fixed lines and is a longer climb (takes weeks longer). Denali is further north than Everest and can offer extremely cold weather but Everest needs more assistance and equipment, making Denali an easier climb to plan for.

Denali is the highest mountain in North America, ranking third worldwide, while Everest is the highest mountain in the world. The debate on which is harder to climb have raged on for years. In this article, I aim to shed some light on the matter by comparing the similarities and differences between the two.

Differences

Everest is a longer climb than Denali. For Everest, you need two months, while you only need three weeks for Denali. Everest is also more technical and demanding than Denali, leading some to view Denali as a great training route for Everest.

Assistance

On the flipside, you get a lot of assistance on Everest. There are Sherpas, fixed lines and lots of equipment and amenities set up for expeditions. This is not the case on Denali. Because it’s located in North America, assistance would cost you and arm and a leg, so most people don’t hire porters. They lug their own gear up the mountain on sleds, often starting out with nearly 60kg of gear, food and other provisions.

Fixed lines

Everest also has routes and fixed lines laid out for climbers, while Denali has very little of this. Fixed lines are only ever present in very small sections. So, on Denali, climbers need to be well-versed in crevasse rescue, rope team travel, running belays, self-arrest and safety gear-related skills. In Everest, if you’re on the South Col route, you hardly ever need this.

Height difference

Everest is 8 848m high, while Denali is 6 190m above sea level. This means that you need supplemental oxygen for Everest, which you don’t need for Denali. Altitude sickness is a real danger on Everest.

Maintenance

In terms of pristine nature, Denali wins hands down. The local authorities manage things excellently, so there are no complaints of waste management issues. On Everest, this can be an issue, since so many people trek up the mountain every season, leaving behind all sorts of junk.

Denali aka Mount McKinley. Photo from Denali National Park and Preserve

Similarities

Both of these mountains are high (obviously) and require technical skill from the climber. Both are physically demanding and are covered in ice, snow and glaciers all year round.

If you’re attempting either of these two, you need proper training, a high level of fitness and some serious mental grit to make it through.

Mount Everest North Face as seen from the path to the base camp, Tibet. Photo from Luca Galuzzi

Conclusion

While both Denali and Everest are challenging mountains, Everest is higher and more technically challenging than Denali. Denali is harder in terms of support, since there’s not much of this once you’re on the mountain. Happy Adventures!

Written by Felix

About me

Hi! I’m Felix. When I’m not spending time out in the mountains, I like to write about my hobbies. That is how Mountain Homies was created. On this site, I try to gather all the juicy information about Mountaineering that I have learned since I started. Happy adventures!

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